The USA FDA notes products containing alpha-hydroxy acids, or AHAs for short are employed in anti aging skin protection cosmetics because they do cause exfoliation of surface skin. The effect relies on the concentration of AHAs in the products together with the effect of other ingredients.
AHAs work in the pores once soaked up and start to cause the skin to dump the topmost layer of dead epidermal cells. As the dead cells at the ‘top’ of skin are removed, healthy new cells from deeper layers come to the surface. Low concentrations (say 5-10%) are usually the staple of the (heavily sold) over the counter creams and typically contain glycolic acid, one of the five kinds of AHAs.
Higher concentrations of AHAs are used in a method dubbed ‘the chemical peel’. The British Association of Cosmetic Doctors recommend higher concentration peels should be undertaken only as a professionally administered treatment, in order to offer protection to the patient. It states the treatment can definitely help recharge skin, but will still not give a 50 year old the skin of a 25 year old. The treatment produces non permanent redness and can have complications like cold-sore flare-ups.
The FDA explains there’s a lack of strong research into the long term result of AHAs on the skin from everyday over the counter stuff containing them. Giselle Mir, a UK Cosmetic Scientist with her own cosmetic line, goes a stage further with criticism of the mechanism of AHAs on the skin. She has stated to the press she suspects the creams actions simply irritate the skin, ensuing finally in greater moisture loss from the top layer and early aging.
None of the information in this article is be a substitute for medical advice. Please only consult qualified general medical and / or dermatology physicians for major skin disorders.
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